Milan keeps
things moving!
The year has just begun but the menswear preview collections currently
showing on the Milan
runway are all about how a guy should dress for the fall-winter 2008-2009.
And to make things walk even faster, this round the Milan shows are crammed
into four days to accommodate a busy Paris schedule which includes both
menswear and couture next week.
"Everybody is doing everything fast," said Tomas Maier, creative
director at Bottega Veneta, to The Associated Press after his much applauded
show on Sunday.
Maier's collection balances elegant with casual to create a contemporary
country club look. Inspiration for the casual comes from the workman's
wardrobe, from the chore coats to the driver's jackets and baggy painter pants.
Fabrics range from canvas and denim to sturdy leather. The more formal wear is
as tailored as a made-to-order suit. Jackets are single or double-breasted and
trousers are wide.
Dolce & Gabbana, one of the hottest labels in trendy menswear, also
called for an end to fashion overdose at a pre-show chat with the media. "What's
happening in fashion is like inviting someone to dinner and stuffing them with
double helpings. By the time desert comes around, they can't look at food
anymore," Stefano Gabbana said.
The duo's show on Saturday offered up rustic fashion for next winter. Going
back to their roots, they outfitted a Sicilian shepherd from macho woolen cap
to bulky knit sweater under a hefty sheepskin coat, to the all-purpose leather
boots. When he goes to town on business, their shepherd wears a pinstriped suit
complete with white shirt and tie and carries a crocodile briefcase.
Burberry designer Christopher Bailey, who also showed Saturday, was in the
mood for romance. Silk shirts, vests, soft cardigan sweaters and legging-like
trousers all combine to evoke a misty English countryside. A crocodile leather
trench coat and pullovers fashioned with tufts of rooster feathers lent an
extra dash of eccentricity to an already dandified collection.
Earlier on Saturday, Donatella Versace underlined the comeback of the top coat with
an extra long double-breasted military version in deep purple. According to
Donatella, the coat represents a male yearning for luxury.
Dolce & Gabanna
Bottega Veneta
Versace
Pictures from Chris Moore/Karl Prouse