Galliano kicks off haute couture in Paris

It may have been Black Monday for the financial market, but the Christian Dior show kicked off haute couture week in Paris yesterday unbowed by the plummeting markets. John Galliano, the British designer of Dior, based his collection on turn-of-the-century art, including Gustave Klimt's Salome and John Singer Sargent's painting of Madame X, which scandalized Paris in 1884 with its heady female sexuality. But while Sargent's Madame X wore unadorned black velvet, yesterday's Dior outfits came in jewel-bright shades of purple, fuschia and yellow silk.

Haute couture week also sees fashion legend Valentino finally bow out of the industry - but not without a final parting shot. "This environment is no longer stimulating," the 77-year-old told journalists after the launch of his final haute couture show in Paris. "I certainly won't miss the fashion world. It's ruined! Everybody's doing the same things. What's missing is challenge, creativity, cheerfulness. These days it's all about numbers! To continue working in an environment which says nothing in particular to me would be a bore."

The creator and his creation