Galliano shines one more time in Paris

After his extraordinary work surrounding Dior’s 60th anniversary celebration — a creative explosion of epic proportions already in the autumn/winter 2007-8 — on Monday afternoon John Galliano pulled back in Paris; his collection impressed with its elegant simplicity.

Galliano based his collection on the androgyny of Marlene Dietrich, with references to Billie Holiday, Josephine Baker and the Great Gatsby.

Double-breasted trouser suits with waistcoats came in classic black and white pinstripe and Dietrich-style cream, accessorised with platform shoes with "Chrysler Building" crystal heels and fedora hats.

Sprinkled with diamante, 1940s-style dresses had accentuated shoulders and below-the-knee hemlines, in pearl tones of cream, pale sage and grey. Other dresses were in bright orange devoré velvet with crystal fringing.

Jazzy leopard-spot silk was used for brief "teddies" trimmed with lace and slinky robes, sashed loosely over brown pinstripe tailoring.

Dinner gowns in scarlet and black were the epitome of early Hollywood glamour.

Galliano took his bow in a pastiche of the classic photograph of Marlene Dietrich, in top hat and tails.

Elsewhere, Vivienne Westwood proved she isn't ready to slow down just yet. Her collection was entitled 56 - a reference to the British government proposal to keep terror suspects in jail for up to 56 days without charge – though there was nothing particularly revolutionary in the signature check, high-waisted trousers, bustiers and T-shirt dresses she sent down the runway.

Yohji Yamamoto played with proportion, putting a high-tech spin on hooped crinoline skirts, while Martin Margiela experimented with form, giving us nude jersey dresses and stripping panels out of jackets.





Galliano design's