Paris Fashion Week: Old Vs. New

Newcomer Esteban Cortazar made his closely watched debut at French fashion label Emanuel Ungaro on Wednesday in the hopes of reviving a brand that has struggled to forge a new identity since its founder retired in 2004.

The 23-year-old is the third designer in as many years to try his hand at revamping Ungaro, highlighting the dilemma facing many luxury houses — how to ensure their survival once their founder has left.

It was a baptism by fire, coming on the same day as displays by industry veteran Karl Lagerfeld and critical favorites Christian Lacroix and Dries Van Noten.

Cortazar stuck to the house codes of draping and print with a light-handed collection of vaporous gowns and delicate oversized cardigans in soft shades of pearl gray and light blue, cut with dashes of vivid purple.

Lagerfeld, 74, stuck to his trademark mix of razor-sharp suits and little black dresses for his eponymous line, which he designs alongside his more high-profile roles as artistic director of Chanel and Fendi.

The German designer fashioned gray pinstriped wool into blazers, shirts, waistcoats and even bow ties in the autumn-winter display, staged in a tent at the foot of the Eiffel Tower.

Meanwhile, Lacroix coated wool with a shiny glaze to create what he called an "elephant skin" effect, sculpting the foamy fabric into striking pod coats, some featuring slits for the arms.

Black ostrich feathers nestled amid thick wool fringe on ponchos and skirts, while stiff duchesse satin in bright jewel tones made for a ravishing sequence of cocktail gowns.

Van Noten, fresh from dressing actress Cate Blanchett for the Oscars, drew warm applause for his bohemian collection of richly colored furs and wispy silk dresses in multicolored patterns, shown in the concrete bowels of the Grand Palais.

Ungaro design on Paris catwalk yesterday